The Internet and advertising are
inundated with skincare advice.
That advice can be contradictory
or confusing at times. With so
many products (and influencers)
out there for skin, where should
you start?
Recently, we sat down with
board-certified dermatologist
Faris Hawit, MD, FAAD and
board-certified dermatology
nurse practitioner Heather
Montgomery, CRNP of Calvert
Dermatology and Skin Cancer
Center to get their advice for
maintaining healthy skin.
Back to the Basics
Dr. Hawit says the key to good skin is as
simple as cleansing, moisturizing and
protecting it from the sun.
“The best skincare products are the
ones that protect your skin from sun
damage and don’t harm your skin by overly
exfoliating it and drying it out and exposing it to fragrances and
things like that,” said Dr. Hawit.
This means choosing fragrance-free and hypoallergenic
products, avoiding mechanical exfoliants and using mineral
sun protectors such as zinc. He said mechanical exfoliants such
as washcloths, buff puffs and apricot scrubs should be avoided
because they strip the oil from the skin.
Although they may give the temporary satisfaction of smoothfeeling
skin, Dr. Hawit explained they ultimately increase oil gland
production. Harsh products strip the skin of oil so it compensates
by producing more oil in a vicious cycle.
A basic skincare routine Dr. Hawit suggests is
cleansing with a gentle cleanser day and night – not
a soap as they dry out the skin. Then, use a daily
moisturizer with an SPF during the day (rain or
shine) and retinol at night.
If someone opts for makeup that day, it should be
worn over top of the moisturizer and SPF. Montgomery
said an SPF of 30 or greater is recommended. SPF
is essential for skin cancer prevention, as well as
preventing leathery skin, dark spots and wrinkles.
“If you want your skin to look young when you’re
60, you need to protect it from ultraviolet damage
that comes from the sun,” Dr. Hawit said.
The products in a good daily skincare routine
don’t have to be fancy, organic or expensive.
Montgomery said there’s plenty of good over-thecounter
options.
“Organic is fine but we have to remember
there’s a lot of marketing out there. It doesn’t mean
their products are bad but it doesn’t mean they are
the answer to everything. Organic doesn’t mean
harmless,” Montgomery said.
Adding in Extras
While the focus should be primarily on protecting and
moisturizing the skin, Montgomery also recommends
adding in a retinol anti-aging product. This should
be applied underneath nighttime moisturizer.
However, the only Food and Drug Administration
(FDA)-approved product for fine lines and wrinkles is
Retin-A, which is prescription only.
Montgomery said people with acne concerns can
try over-the-counter acne medications and washes but
if improvement isn’t seen within two to three months,
she suggests they see a dermatologist.
Some may want to self-treat other skincare
concerns with other over-the-counter products. It’s
important not to add in too many products too quickly
or use them too frequently as over time. This may be
too irritating for the skin.
“A better approach is to simplify the regimen and
if you want to try a new product, try one at a time for
a period of three months or so,” said Montgomery.
“If you like that and the way it feels or looks, then
continue it. Adding multiple wrinkle creams and
multiple things, it becomes too irritating for the skin
and it can become counterproductive.”